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But beneath those hypermuscular builds are often serious health problems. At Gucci's menswear show in Januaryfor example, boyish female models walked alongside waifish men. In the summer ofHabermacher joked that I should head to East Asia if I wanted my career to really take off. Certain clauses felt particularly exploitative, he says. The following weekend, we shot a series of portraits. I had to cope with relentless pressure to keep my weight down, and my agency bookers expected me to attend castings for up to 17 hours a day in the run-up to fashion week. Matthew, a British model, signed up with his first agency while he settled into life in Paris a few months later, he joined Elite, the world's leading agency.

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Ultimately, they're a commodity, and you have to look after them.

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And a few months later, he sent me to one of Paris's most prestigious modeling agencies. Muscle-bound male models with perfect cheekbones and fat paychecks? One model, Jack—that's a pseudonym—says that has increased competition between men and women for the same shows.

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His travel and accommodations were to be covered by the agency, but under the terms of the contract the money had to be paid back.

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